Well, I did it! I climbed to the top of Mt. Fuji (the heighest mountain in Japan) andI have to say that it was probably one of the most difficult things I’ve ever done.
While Mt. Fuji isn’t a particularly hard mountain to climb, as far as mountains in general go, I wouldn’t say it’s an easy task.
There were four of us climbing together; Kathryn, Bethany, and Cong. I had managed to stress them all out in the previous week by constantly talking about what to bring, sending links to weather forecasts, and discussing how long we should take for each stage (in order to see sunrise), but after we started climbing we soon realised that this wasn’t something to be under-prepared for.
I left Kimitsu on Saturday at 10:30am and we got to the fifth station of Mt. Fuji at 4:40pm. The fifth station is the starting point for most climbers at Fuji and is about 2000m above sea level. Here we had some food, bought some souveneir climbing sticks and adjusted to the altitude before setting off.
There are 4 main routes up Mt. Fuji. The most popular is the Kawaguchiko/Yoshida trail. I read somewhere that there are 30,000 people who climb Fuji each year, but as the climbing season is so short (July-September), it works out at about 3000 per day (with nearly everyone climbing at the same time in order to view the sunrise). Everyone I had spoken to, and everything I had read, implied that the sheer volume of people and all the tour groups climbing Fuji on this route, made things more difficult as the trail is not always wide enough to overtake people and you end up stuck going at someone elses pace.
With this in mind I decided we should take the Subashiri route.
Pros:
- More gradual incline
- Less people (3rd most popular route)
- More wooded (offering nicer scenery and protection from wind/sun)
- Easier to come down
Cons:
- Longer
- Less lodges/stations, so less places to stop and get food/rest (Subashiri (our route) = 7 lodges/stations. Kawaguchiko (popular route) = around 12 lodges/stations)
- No first aid or support or anything like that if something happens
I’m glad we chose this route. For most of the route we hardly saw anyone and less lodges/stations meant that we weren’t tempted to stop as much. However when things started getting difficult later on we would have welcomed a few extra places offering shelter and protection (more later).
As I mentioned we stayed at the fifth station until about 6pm to adjust to the altitude. One thing to avoid when climbing is altitude sickness. The pressure at these altitudes (2000m fifth station, 3775m summit) is a lot less, so breathing takes more energy and you get less oxygen with each breath. If you climb too fast then you will experience headaches, nausea, and dizzyness and there’s not much you can do about it.
The difference the altitude made was quite noticable. When we stopped we felt fine, but when walking we got out of breath very quickly and climbing became difficult. I felt that it got easier when we were nearer the top though, maybe as we weren’t gaining height as fast, or maybe because our bodies had gotten used to it.
The temperature in Kimitsu on Saturday was around 30 degrees. The temperature at the fifth station was about 12/15 degrees and at the top about -1 degrees. While we were walking it was fine but when we stopped you really felt the cold.
The fifth to sixth station took us about two hours, climbing 400m (2400m). It was quite pleasant with all the trees and greenery but the affects of the altitude mentioned above caught us by surprise. The view of the surrounding towns and lakes below was gorgeous though. There was a little rain, but we were so hot from walking that it didn’t matter.
We left the 6th station at about 7:30pm. The sun was now setting and we were now walking by torchlight. All the trees and bushes were quickly replaced with bare rock. One of the difficult things about climbing Mt. Fuji, is that you are not climbing on solid rock but up steep slopes of volcanic gravel and sand. It means that you take 2 steps then slide back one, as you can’t get a decent grip. Then it really started to rain. Without the protection of the trees from the wind, the rain came at us almost horizontally and stung as it whipped across your face. As none of us could really afford to go out and buy proper rain wear we were all clad in crappy Daiso (£1 store) waterproofs which weren’t brilliant. By this point everyone had realised that this wasn’t going to be easy. We got to the old 6th station (2700m) at about 8:00pm.
My opinion of the stations before we went was that they were small mountain lodges where you could sleep, rest, or buy food (all for extortionate prices). I don’t know what the popular/touristy route was like, but on ours the lodges were tiny shacks. At the very least I expected them to offer some shelter from the wind and rain, but I was completely wrong.
By now we were very wet and noticing the cold a lot more when we stopped, but putting on more layers was quite difficult without any way to escape the wind and rain. Also, Kathryn was starting to find things extremely difficult. Whether it was due to altitude sickness or not I don’t know. We were all starting to feel the strain on our legs though. As there was literally nothing at this station we pushed on with the hope that we would pay the extortionate price to simply sit inside the next station for 30mins out of the weather.
At 9:30pm we arrived at the 7th station (3090m). We were all absolutely knackered. The last hour and a half of climbing up sandy slopes, in the pouring rain, and wind that was so strong you had to stop in case it blew you over was extremely difficult.
It was around here that Kathryn was feeling really sick and that she couldn’t go on. However there really wasn’t much we could do. She could either pay to spend the night there and we would pick her up on the way back tomorrow or we could crack on. Either way we decided that we needed 30mins out of the wind and rain to put on more clothes, rest, and get something to eat. Although when we asked at the station they said that they were too busy (although there was barely anyone in there – maybe 3 or 4 people). No matter whether we paid or not, we couldn’t come inside (not even for a minute), we couldn’t buy food or drink. They wouldn’t even stamp our climbing sticks. (I thought Kathryn was going to punch him). We were about half way and decided to press on.
The trails were now getting steeper and we were having to stop every few minutes to regain our breath so progress was slow. The good news was it had stopped raining. The bad news was it was getting windier. However to make up for it there were some amazing views as the clouds cleared and revealed an astonishingly breathtaking night time panorama. As we looked at the twinkling lights of the lakes and cities below us we saw a tiny flashing light that at first we thought was a lighthouse or something, before realising that it was a fireworks display far far below us at a nearby town. We went slowly and reached the eighth station (3350m) around 11:00pm.
So far we were ahead of my schedule by about 30mins. However at this point we had decided that our aim was to get to the summit no matter how long it took. If we got there for sunrise then that was a bonus, rather than our aim, as it was at the start. The eighth station for me marked a kind of mini victory as in my mind I considered this the last main stop before the summit (although I was completely wrong).
This station was a bit bigger and while not offering us anywhere to sit inside, at least had a bit of protection from the wind, and served a much needed hot coffee.
Again I don’t know about the popular route, but we now realised that on our route the lodges aren’t really open 24hrs as I had thought. They are open during the day, receive people who sleep there in the early evening, then close for the night. Sometimes offering drinks and the toilet to other visitors but nothing else which is why we couldn’t stop (or even step) inside any of them.
At this point Kathryn seemed to be a lot better. I don’t know whether she actually felt better or was just now resolved to get to the top, but the 8th station seemed to mark our second wind I feel. The summit seemed closer and we knew the next few stations would be closer together. The rain had let up, we were getting used to the air, and seemed to have gotten into a kind of rhythm or pace for climbing.
At the next station (the old 8th station – 3400m) our trail (Subashiri) and the popular trail (Kawaguchiko/Yoshida) merged. This was the biggest of the stations I had seen and not only allowed people inside, but also sold real food and drinks. The only downside was that it was packed full of climbers.
It gave us a taste of what the popular route must have been like as hundreds of people were pushing past each other, massive tour groups sat/stood in everyones way, and tour guides shouted stuff while waving massive lighted batons. I had originally planned for this to be our longest stop where we would buy a proper meal before heading to the summit, but I was starting to feel nauseus due to the altitude so couldn’t eat anything. I was also worried that the queues of people meant that if we wanted to see sunrise then we should crack on.
From here on out things changed. We were now climbing with hundreds of other people, at a snails pace. It seemed easier than before, but only because we were stopping and queuing every two seconds. We could now see to the summit and it still seemed so far away, especially at the pace we were going. We could also see the trail of lights of the people ahead of us, all the way to the top.
It wasn’t so bad going at a slow pace, but having to stop still behind tour groups was a nightmare. Meanwhile the tour guides shouting was just irritating and the hiss of the people with oxygen cannisters also got on my nerves (although I did have to take a shot of my inhaler at this point as the altitude/cold was causing my athsma to flare up).
It took us until 1:30pm to get to the next station (3500m). We were now behind my schedule and although I thought we still had plenty of time to make it to the top I was concerned about the pace of the queues of people. It was like being in line for Disneyland or Alton Towers.
At this station we met a few people and were astonished to see some elementary school age kids climbing with their parents (although they really didn’t look happy – I kind of pitied them and wondered what kind of parent takes their kids to a place like this at that age). The wind was quite unbearable now and it was really cold. We kept climbing thinking we had one more station before the summit.
It turned out that there is no 9th station (at least we couldn’t see it), just a marker there, so this ended up being our final trek to the summit. This next part was really tricky. There was no trail and we were just climbing up rocks and boulders.
The real problem was the number of people. Japanese people can be quite rude in general in busy situations compared to the UK (they don’t say “excuse me” or “sorry” they just push past, cut you off, and stand in your way – train stations, supermarkets, and driving tend to highlight this the most). Here was no exception. You’re in line queueing behind 100s of people (it’s too dangerous for it to be more than single file); you’re balanced precariously on some slippery rocks; you’re trying not to be blown over by the wind; you’ve found your next foothold and are just waiting for the person in front to move; when someone comes from behind and pushes past nearly knocking you over. All of this in the fog and dark at 2 in the morning. It was scary, frustrating, tiring, and painful (my legs felt like they were made of lead). Me and Bethany lost Kathryn and Cong at this point (although we could here them below us somewhere).
At 3am we made it to the top (3776m)! I don’t know what we were expecting but the top was a nightmare. The winds at the top were gale force and the cloud was so thick not only could you not see a thing, but everyone/everything was absolutely soaked from the moisture being blown at you.
Any spot offering shelter from the wind already had people huddled in it. Kathryn needed to be sick and went to join the massive lines queuing for the toilet. Me and Bethany tried to wait but it was so cold sitting there with no protection from the elements we had to move. We tried to get some food, but whether it was due to the altitude, exhaustion, or lack of sleep I was also feeling nauseus and couldn’t eat. (This was probably a bad idea as I had only had raisins and a couple of snickers bars since we started and needed to keep my energy up).
It was so foggy we couldn’t see more than a few metres in front of us let alone sunrise. So when it got light (about 4:45am) we decided to head back down before the weather got any worse. I also think in our minds the summit was the goal, so the thought of having to go all the way back down again was just depressing, and we now all firmly wanted this experience to be over.
Once at the top of Fuji there is a nice 3km walk around the crater. You can reach the actual highest point of the summit, and even visit a post office to send postcards with a postmark saying top of Mt. Fuji. As we had all written postcards we tried to find it, but as we couldn’t see through the fog ended up asking directions. We were told that the gale force winds and the fog meant it was too dangerous to walk around the summit and that the post office was far at the other side. So we gave up on that idea and headed back down.
The walk back down was endless. Going up, you had stations to stop at and a sense of how far you had come. Going down was just one long straight path with no stops. I say a path, it really wasn’t. It was one long sand slope. The biggest difficulty here was standing up, as you sunk deep into the sand with each step. I think me and Bethany fell over at least once.
I found this bit the most difficult. It wasn’t that tiring but the tops of my legs were really starting to hurt at this point and I felt drained as I hadn’t eaten anything. As It was a long straight path you could also see how far you had left to go and the distance never seemed to shorten. The weather was great though (once we were out of the clouds) and the views were brilliant.
We got back to the 5th station at 9:30am and felt like the living dead. Our bodies were aching, we were sleepy, sweaty, and exhausted. Every time I stopped it felt like my joints had rusted over the next time I moved. The next problem we encountered was the bus going back down from the 5th station was delayed so we ended up catching the 9:30 bus at 11:45 causing us to miss our train. There was also this crazy old man with a massive radio pack shouting at people for various reasons such as sitting down, not queueing correctly, and reading the bus time table, which wasn’t fun to listen to for 2 hours.
Eventually I got home feeling like every movement was a pain at about 6pm on Sunday.
All in all I’m so glad I did it. It was rewarding, an amazing experience (in good and bad ways), offered fantastic views, and is a personal achievement I’m proud of. (I’m especially proud for not having done the popular route and having done it in such shit conditions as well). I’m also really proud of Kathryn who, although feeling crap halfway, pushed on and didn’t give up.
If you are thinking of doing Fuji then I really recommend you check the weather and unless it says sunshine and clear skies, postpone the trip if possible, . I can’t say what it would be like to actually see the sunrise from the top (as we couldn’t see anything) but I don’t think it’s worth it. Going early in the morning and coming back the same would be so much more pleasant and I think just as rewarding.
[Also I'm proud of all of you who managed to read this gianormous blog entry all the way to the end - sorry]
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5th Station
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Subashiri Route
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A long way left to go
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The climbing crew
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Gorgeous views
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The trail
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6th Station
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Then it rained
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Down the slippery (sandy) slope